Wild China #4 - Festival of Fire in Dali.

Continuing my tales of a visit to some of the slightly less well known parts of China.

It just so happened that our arrival in the ancient city of Dali in Yunnan Province, coincided with an annual torch festival held by the local Bai ethnic minority group of people. 

There were clues to this as we explored the city and the surrounding area. Everywhere we went, we witnessed large pieces of wood being carved into shape and decorated with brightly coloured paper flags, lanterns and even pieces of fruit. These creations were then somehow supported in upright positions throughout the city.

It was explained to us that this festival had been celebrated by the Bai people and other minority groups for hundreds of years though the origin was unclear. It was believed to follow the ancient tradition of fire worship because of the ability of fire to repel insects and drive away evil spirits, thus protecting the precious crops. The Bai people themselves are only one of fifty six officially recognised ethnic groups in China and are mainly based in Yunnan Province.

The houses set within the ancient city walls are clustered together at the foot of the Cangshan mountain range and very close to the beautiful Erhai Lake. 

Many of the narrow streets have small streams running down one side and are lined with quaint houses, shops and restaurants built of stone and wood. 

We paused at one to sample some of the local delicacies.

Despite all the activity, the city and the countryside with its Buddhist temples and pagodas, invoked a feeling of peace and calm, yet we sensed an underlying excitement building as the locals prepared for their festival. It was as the sun slowly fell behind the mountains and darkness penetrated the city that the celebrations began in earnest.

One by one, the torches were lit and flames were soon shooting into the black night sky. 

Not high enough for some of the local people apparently, as pine resin was then thrown into the flames causing them to shoot even higher towards the overhanging tree branches that seemed perilously close. 

Fortunately orange suited firemen were strategically placed on crossroads with quad bikes converted into mini fire engines ready to negotiate the narrow streets. 

Pieces of burning debris were soon tumbling from the higher torches as people stood close-by clapping and cheering, young children scampering around at their feet. The locals did not seem to share our propensity for health and safety regulations.

Along every street, torches were soon burning furiously. Smaller pieces were broken off and were carried around by children. Fortunately we witnessed no accidents but decided to retreat to a safe distance. 

Throughout the city, there was a carnival atmosphere as people strolled about witnessing the scenes or just relaxed at one of the many bars and restaurants to watch all the activity around them. 

Soon we found a bar from which we could view the proceedings whilst sipping one of the delicious local beers. Smiling people in beautifully coloured ethnic costumes waved as they passed these strange westerners who seemed reluctant to venture too close to the flames. 

The celebrations went on late into the night and to the best of my knowledge, no one was killed or maimed.




As we leave Dali behind, I will next report from another of our destinations.